How to choose the right sewing machine needle
Match the needle type to your fabric and the size to its weight. Using the wrong needle is a common cause of skipped stitches, broken thread and damaged fabric. Lower numbers are finer and higher numbers are thicker.
- Universal: most woven fabrics
- Ballpoint or stretch: knits and stretch fabric
- Denim or jeans: thick, tightly woven fabric
- Leather: leather and vinyl
- Quilting: layers of fabric and batting
- Embroidery: a larger eye for embroidery thread
- Microtex or sharp: fine, tightly woven fabric
Needle size guide
Needle sizes show two numbers, such as 90/14. The first is the European size and the second is the American size. Use 70/10 to 80/12 for light fabric, 80/12 to 90/14 for medium fabric and 90/14 to 110/18 for heavy fabric. Choose a larger size for thicker thread.
Match the needle and thread
The thread should pass through the needle eye easily and sit in the groove without fraying. Thicker thread needs a larger needle with a larger eye. For embroidery, use an embroidery needle and thread made for it.
When to change your needle
Change your needle after about 8 hours of sewing, when it skips stitches, makes a popping sound or hits a pin, and at the start of each new project. A dull needle can damage fabric and cause uneven stitches. Do not try to straighten a bent needle.
Common needle problems
- Skipped stitches: wrong type, wrong size or a dull needle
- Thread breakage: needle too small or damaged
- Puckered seams: needle too large for the fabric
- Holes in knits: use a ballpoint needle
Needle systems and compatibility
Most home machines use the same needle system, but some machines, especially specialty and industrial ones, use a different type. Check your manual for the system your machine uses before you buy.
Storing needles
Keep needles in their case and mark used ones, so you do not mix them with new ones. Use a magnetic needle holder or a pincushion for safe handling.
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